Thinking about re-chroming a Dixie?

I thought re-chroming might be a good idea, until I saw this entry on ehow:

www.ehow.com

Yikes! What about keeping fret height and such? I'm going to check with a local chrome plater to see what might be possible.

Chrome Hardware

10-24 chrome threaded stock doesn't seem to be available (via Google search). I did find some chrome 1 inch 10-24 bolts, and you could cut the heads off and put the cut end into the tension ring. They are presently $1.16 each at http://www.allensfasteners.com (do a search on that site for "chrome bolt").While you're at it, pick up an extra to use for the tail piece bolt. A button head allen bolt would be a good choice to keep a low profile around the tail piece.

At that same site, you can get 10-24 chrome nuts. Do a site search for "chrome nut" and look on that page for HEX NUT CHROME (COURSE). They're presently $.44 each.

Finding Parts

Here is a list of the hardware parts with photos. Tuning pegs are excluded from this list, as they will be covered in another post.

Sorry for the small type -- getting used to blog photo limitations.

1. Neck adjustment set screws -- two required (far left is an Ace Hardware available replacement, right is the original).
   
   
   • The proper size is 5/16 X 18 X 5/16. That means the diameter of the threaded part is 5/16 inch, there are 18 threads per inch, and the length of the threaded part is 5/16 inch. 
   • The original is slotted -- the replacement is hex. If you go with hex, make sure to pick up an Allen wrench that fits it.
2. Neck attachment bolts -- two required.
   
   

   

   Set screws and bolts as seen from bottom of body

   • An original Dixie has two different sizes. The one at the bottom of the body (the top one in the photo above) is 1/4 X 20 X 1/2.  The diameter of the threads is 1/4 inch, there are 20 threads per inch, and the length of the threaded part is 1/2 inch. The one at the top of the body (nearest the set screws is 1/4 X 20 X 5/8. The diameter of the threads is 1/4 inch, there are 20 threads per inch, and the length of the threaded part is 5/8 inch.
   • The locally available replacement is hex. Again, don't forget a proper sized Allen wrench.
3.  Head tension nuts - eight required.
   
   • The proper size is 10-24. 
   • Readily available locally.
   • Keep some extras in your banjolele took kit if you don't use lock washers.
4.  Lock washer -- eight required, if you use them.
   
   • The proper size is #10.
   • In my experience, THE part most missing from Dixie's is one or more tension nuts.
   • If all of the nuts have equal tension, they should not vibrate loose. But, it's difficult to judge tension (unless you use a torque wrench or the "lock washer" method, below).
   • As long as a lock washer is fully flattened between the nut and the body of the banjolele, it will keep the nut from vibrating off.
   • The "lock washer" method of equal tension: tightening the nuts as you do lugs on a wheel, if you watch for when each lock washer flattens, you'll know that all the nuts are at the same tension. Then you can keep track of the number of turns (or partial turns) you use from that point on. This way, the nuts should all remain at the same tension. Go slow. Tighten a small amount at a time. Never tighten a nut that's adjacent (or close to) to the one you just tightened. Jump from side to side when tightening.
5.  Tail piece bolt -- one required.
   
   

   

   Tail piece bolt is at the very top of this photo.

   • The proper size is 10-24 X 1/2 inch. Whoops! I just removed the tail piece from the "Black" model Dixie, and it has a 3/8 inch long bolt. I got the 1/2 inch measurement from the "Red" model. I would prefer the 1/2 inch for adjustment purposes. It looks like there are no clearance problems for even a much longer bolt. The bolt hole is threaded all the way through the tension ring, and there's even a non threaded hole in the body below that.
   • Same size as the eight threaded stock pieces on the head tension ring (the tension ring is in the photo below).
   • The tail piece (which anchors the ends of the strings) is attached to the head tension ring (photo above and below). Sometimes it hits the body of the banjolele. You could raise the tail piece so this doesn't happen. An extra 10-24 nut would help here. You'd take the tail piece loose and sandwich the tail piece between the head of the tail piece bolt and the nut. Then you'd adjust the bolt height for clearance. If more clearance is needed, you could sandwich the tail piece between two 10-24 nuts. The reason I bring this up is that replacement drum heads may require tightening the head tension nuts a good bit more than required by an original head.
6. Threaded stock -- eight required.
   
   

   

   Threaded stock and tension ring.

   • The proper size is 10-24 X 1 inch (measurement taken from a known all original part Dixie).
   • ~3/16 inch is screwed into the tension ring.
   • The threaded stock in the photo above was removed from the hole above it.
7. I've looked on the internet for replacement parts, and there is a wide variety of choices -- much better than taking whatever is available locally. It would make sense to try to keep the parts as compatible as possible -- like all Allen wrench, all slotted, all Phillips, etc.
8. What would be super cool would be to have all chrome hardware for the parts that are visible while playing. There are some chrome pieces available. In a future post, I'll try to list what I've run upon in this regard.
9. Stainless steel would be a good idea for the hardware, too.