This post has been edited. Edits are in red.
Dixie #4
|
This is probably in the best condition of any I've seen. |
|
The back view. |
|
|
This thing is in great shape. I doubt anyone ever played it. No fret wear even though it has old, rusty metal strings. I don't know how many folks play a Dixie with metal strings. With nylon strings these things are LOUD. I may or may not tighten these metal strings. I'm concerned that the tuning peg buttons may not be able to take the pressure it might take to tune metal strings.
What I was really wanting to see was the tuning pegs -- to compare them with the other three Dixie models.
|
Notice the dark lines running down the center of the buttons. |
The pegs match the buttons of the third Dixie I acquired. That's the one that had a tuning peg button (the plastic part) split when trying to tune the instrument. That split appeared along the dark lines mentioned in the caption of the photo above.
I'm guessing, but I think these tuning pegs are original to the instrument since both sets (from Dixie 3 and 4) are in the same aged condition. Also, the screws match -- they have the built in washers.
|
The first things to corrode are usually the finish washers. |
Luckily, as I've said in earlier posts, the finish washers are available at most local hardware stores. The finish washers are the raised things surrounding each tuning post.
|
This hardware matches that on the other Dixies. |
No hardware was missing from this 4th Dixie. The neck adjustment set screws have not been used here to adjust the neck (covered in another post).
|
There's no gap between the neck and body (at the red arrow). |
You can tell if the adjustment set screws are affecting the neck by looking for a gap. That gap would be between the neck and the body.
I don't think any one of the four Dixie's have an original bridge.
|
A fourth type bridge, this one a "Grover." |
This is the first bridge that has been solid where the bridge presses against the head.
After changing the strings and putting all chrome hardware on this Dixie, I set it up to play it the first time. That's when I discovered that strings 1 and 2 buzz on the first fret. That's because this model "Grover" bridge is too low. I may tighten the head, which would probably raise the strings enough not to buzz. Better still, I'll buy another bridge. Tightening an "aged" head can cause it to split. I suspect that when tightening a vellum head it may be best to wet it.
I'm going to take this one apart (maybe with the exception of loosening the head tension). I'll take a photo of the neck where it attaches to the body -- to see which of the other models it matches.
I did take the head off to clean the instrument. I also put all chrome hardware on it.
|
I think this one's not original and not vellum (calf skin). This is the top view. |
|
Bottom view of the head. You can see the gap in the frame at the 6 o'clock position. |
|
The head's attached to an aluminum frame. |
|
Another view of the frame. |
|
Like another model, the more or less rectangular hole space between the bolt holes is filled in. |
|
|
I'll add a photo or movie of this "tricked out" instrument soon.
And here they are:
|
The posts and nuts are chrome. |
|
Another view. |
|
Another view with battery bracket (for lights) |
|
The tail piece bolt is chrome plated too. |